Malort: Chicago's Bitter Legend

Among the vast world of spirits, few elicit a reaction quite like Malört. Loved, hated, revered, and reviled, often simultaneously, Malört has carved out a unique place in drinking culture, particularly in its adopted hometown of Chicago. With its unmistakable bitterness and bold flavor, Malört isn’t just a liquor, it’s a rite of passage.

A Bitter Beginning

Malört (pronounced muh-lurt) is a type of bäsk, a traditional Swedish wormwood-based schnapps. The word "malört" itself is Swedish for "wormwood." The liquor’s roots trace back to Carl Jeppson, a Swedish immigrant who brought the recipe to the U.S. in the early 20th century. Jeppson began producing Malört in Chicago during the Prohibition era, marketing it as a medicinal tonic—one of the few legal loopholes available at the time. Eventually, Jeppson’s Malört became the standard-bearer of the style in America, and the Jeppson’s brand is now virtually synonymous with Malört itself.

Flavor That Defies Description

Malört is, without a doubt, an acquired taste. Its defining feature is an aggressive bitterness, derived from the wormwood that flavors the liquor. At first sip, Malört delivers a sharp, medicinal flavor—oily, herbal, and earthy. This quickly gives way to a wave of intense bitterness that clings to the palate long after swallowing. Some describe it as grapefruit rind soaked in gasoline, while others simply say it tastes like a dare. Despite its challenging profile, Malört has built a cult following. Devotees praise its unapologetic boldness and argue that its flavor is more honest and nuanced than overly sweet, mass-produced spirits. It’s not trying to please everyone—and that’s precisely the point.

A Chicago Icon

Although born from Swedish tradition, Malört has become deeply embedded in Chicago's identity. For decades, Jeppson’s Malört remained a local curiosity, something you might encounter in a dive bar or receive as a prank shot from a bartender. But over time, it became a badge of honor among locals and adventurous drinkers—proof that you were tough enough, or at least stubborn enough, to stomach it. When the original distillation was moved out of Chicago in the early 2000s, fans were dismayed. But in 2018, CH Distillery brought production back to the city, restoring its authenticity and reinforcing its status as a true Chicago original.

Beyond Bitter

While Malört’s reputation is built on shock and spectacle, some bartenders and mixologists have started to embrace it as a serious ingredient. Its bitter profile makes it a fascinating addition to cocktails, especially in small doses. It can add depth and complexity to drinks that need something sharp to cut through sweetness or richness. It's unlikely to ever replace more mainstream amari or bitters, but for those seeking something different, it offers a unique tool in the bartender’s arsenal.

Final Thoughts

Malört is not for everyone and that’s its greatest strength. It’s a drink that challenges expectations and demands a reaction. Whether you recoil in disgust or grow to love its bold flavor, trying Malört is an experience you won’t forget. In a world of increasingly homogenized spirits, Malört stands out, unfiltered and unapologetic.

And for that, it deserves a toast.